Learn To Surf Part 4 – The Fun Part, Catching your First Wave
Alright then lets get down to business, only 2 articles to go. You now know the right surfboard for a beginner, how to paddle it, and get out through the surf, so in this article we are going to cover the fun part, catching the wave.
Catching the wave:
When you get out behind the breakers, sit on the surfboard so that you are straddling it just below the center of the board. Sitting in this spot makes it easier to turn the surfboard around, when you see a good wave coming.
Keep your eyes on the horizon so the swells don’t take you by surprise, but also keep on checking the shore to make sure you are not drifting down to far. Choose an easy to see land mark on the shore, and stay out the front of it.
When you catch your breath, and you see a nice small wave, that looks full enough to pick you up, but isn’t just going to stand straight up and dump you, turn your board around to face the shore, lay down with your weight cantered, and begin to paddle.
It may take a few times to get your position right, so remember this so you know which way to change it. If you are lying to far back on your surfboard, it will create to much drag, and you will not get enough speed, dropping off the backside of the wave.
Apposed too if you lie to far forward, where you will flip over and tumble down the face. Keep your weight forward to gain speed, but lift your chest up and lean back when the wave starts to take you. When you get some practice standing up, you can pop to your feet just as you start to drop. But for now lets wait until after you have dropped and you are positioned on the flat water in front of the wave.
You need to paddle as hard as you can straight towards the beach. When you get more experienced you can angle your board more, to head along the wave. But since you just want to catch the water in front of the wave, just head straight.
Once you have caught your first wave you are going to need to stand up or pop up to your feet, so we will cover this lesson in the next article, so stay tuned.
